A perfect London afternoon

If by chance you find yourself in London not knowing what to do or need to escape the sheep run with the package deal tourists, I might have a suggestion on how you can pass the time...

London is an eclectic city alive with the weird, the wonderful, the extravagant and the utterly bland, together creating a city so charming and fashionable that it could not be copied or sufficiently praised. So discovering this place could take years . Here is my attempt in one day:

Take a trip on the London Underground. Every visitor MUST do this! A network so well planned, so reliable, traveled on by thousands daily and a wonderful place to see the best and worst of London fashion!

Jump off at Picadilly Circus. No it is not a circus. There is nothing funny to it, except maybe all the Japanese tourists looking for the circus. Picadilly is a landmark and a bustling square with beautiful architecture, gift shops and flashing cameras.

Appreciate the buildings, buy some overpriced curio from a shop and head down towards China town, two blocks further. This must be the most elegant China Town in the world, hosting neat little restaurants and pretty red lanterns hanging in the streets with Chinese shopkeepers flaunting their quintessential British accent.

You'll find yourself surrounded by quaint brick houses and small buildings perfectly balancing on tidy sidewalks where the most trendy deli's, boutiques and speciality shops hang out. This is Soho, renowned for being cool. And it is! The people that pass you are cool. The shops are cool. Even the "bobbies" on their horses are cool. Here you find trendy 20-somethings sipping Latte's at boutique sidewalk cafe's, arty vintage shoppers with mustaches and top hats, luxury vehicles parked in front of uber cool apartments and an energy that makes you feel like saying "absolutely fabulous darlin"


Here on a pretty street, you'll find a famous bakery called The Hummingbird Bakery. This little shop is so famous all around as it was the first bakery to start the cupcake fashion, perfect a red velvet cupcake and still can afford to be an exclusive cupcake shop. Yet, as I walk in, it is only a humble sweet shop with a friendly lady behind the coffee machine welcoming me in, unaware of the celebrity status of the place.

Go ahead and order a warm coffee and a famous cupcake and savour as you see the eclectic Londoners stylishly popping in for their daily cupcake and coffee fix. I do also recommend the Raspberry Mousse Cheesecake Brownie if cupcakes don't tickle your fancy!

After replenishing your energy and soothing your sweet tooth, you could take a souvenir last cupcake, may I recommend the Brooklyn Blackout, or simply take home the Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook, you won't regret it!

Lazily stroll through the streets of Soho and rumble through the vintage shops and music stores, where you can find anything from vintage Versace dresses and handmade leather sachels to crazy 80's dresses with shoulder pads and polka dots.


No trip to England would be complete without a good old Pub Grub and the perfect place to do this must be here: Sheperds Tavern in Mayfair. 

Take a walk through Green Park, Hyde Park and down a cobble stone street where tourist don't tread but Bugatti's and Rolls Royce roll, and you'll stumble upon a little red pub in this picturesque and posh neighbourhood.

Inside you will be greeted by a very friendly and loud "How are you folks" and will immediately be offered a choice of beer on tap, plus a short background of each one. Then a fantasticly large menu will be placed in front of you and most items will be recommended. All gloriously British, with a posh twist and a Birkin bag in hand.

The largest steak I have seen this side from Africa arrives with perfectly greasy fried mushroom, tomato and gravy. My traditional Steak and Ale Pie came with English Sausage, crispy chips, loads of tomato sauce and a rich gravy. Nothing grubby about this pub lunch! Wash it down with a beer and you are ready to brace the crisp cold air and head to M&Ms World.

The best concept store I have visited so far! M&Ms world is every kid's dream come true and with four floors filled with M&M's, any adult instantly becomes a child! It is impossible to resist filling your basket with every colour and flavour, shape and size M&M! The music is loud and energetic, the lights are bright and the life sized M&M men smile at you around every corner. Here you can load your dispensary, bottle, box or even London bus with your favourite colour, or buy M&M pajamas, t-shirts, bags and postcards and have your picture taken with the famous little sweet men, brought to life here. This place is so cool and you will not find a single person n there without a smile on their face. This is my new happy place!

Fill a bag of sweets and take your trip home with the Londoners while wondering whether they love their city as much as you do!

Vino in Venice?

 As I arrive in Italy, the land of Ciaos, Bella and Tutti,where the well dressed men sip their espressos at coffee bars and the ladies elegantly strut their designer shades and handbags. Before leaving the airport you become aware of the beauty, style and wonderful culture of this little Versace Boot shaped country.

The cold crisp air of Venice slaps you on your cheek just to say "Ciao Bella!" "Allora" I greet back, ecstatic to see this amazing place.

Venice, the floating city, the city of love, one of the most visited cities in the world with over 50,000 visitors daily, has become the ultimate location for falling in love, being in love and celebrating new love. The rich history of Crusades and battles,Spice and Silk Trades and the birthplace of the great Antonio Vivaldi adds to the romance and perfect architecture surrounded by the Venetian Lagoon and Adriatic Sea.


Exploring the city is a walk in the clouds as every shop, building, cafe and even tourist looks so perfect you would think they are part of the show.

We start our exploring with an early dinner at a little restaurant called Pedrocchi, invited in by a charming waiter dressed in a tuxedo and bow tie. Italian vino to accompany real Italian food in real Italy- a dream come true!


My Siciliana pizza arrived, elegantly decorated with plump black olives, which I imagine are from Tuscany, on the thinnest crispest  base that crackles with each bite. The lasagne is a no-fuss, perfect square of rich beef ragu and lasagne sheets. Now I realise how South Africans, Americans and all fast food "Pizza Pasta" joints have completely missed the plot on Italian food... We put every possible topping on a thick bready base, kill it with cheap mozzzarella and sometimes even cheddar. Lasagnes are over-cheesed, swimming in oil and bechamel and usually house some lost looking peas and diced carrots. Pasta is overcooked and the sauce sometimes drowns the pasta. An Italian would weep at the site! Especially when you dare cut your spagetti with a knife!!! Where is the Italian style in that?




After my taste of Italy in this charming bistro, apparently established in 1882, we head towards the infamous Rialto Bridge. On the way, the pretty Italian men sell fresh and polished fruits and vegetables, and Chestnuts roasting in big black pots. I have never eaten a chestnut before and the only thing I know about them is the Christmas carol "chestnuts roasting on the fire... Now humming the song, I decide to buy some and give it a try. For 2 euro I buy half a brown bag of warm rich chestnuts. My Spanish friend teaches me to peel them and eat them and think I was born in a cave. The buttery, fat nut warms and satisfies and reminds me of butter brioche just out of the oven (without the cholesterol).

Window displays are decorated with freshly baked artisan breads and Italian pastries, sweets and chocolates. Lemoncillo and grappa, hand made pasta and Venetian masks.

Standing on Rialto Bridge, you fall in love. The beauty and perfection of this wonderful place, the energy and lights, the music and the gondolas floating in the channels, and the magical thought that some of the best artists and performers have walked these streets...


To cool my nostalgia I head for a good gelato shop. Not hard to find here as the dispalys of the hundreds of gelaterias are so mouth watering. I choose the biggest cone and fill it with a scoop of Tiramisu, a scoop of Staciatella,  one Chocolate Cookie and a scoop of Mocha flavoured gelato. The creamiest, most delicately flavoured  ice cream with the smoothness of Valentino's silk scarves makes other ice creams bow their head in shame. There is no comparison between a gelato and an ice cream. It is like comparing French fries to French wine..not the same thing! 


In San Marco Square the great open square is filled with lovers strolling, children running with balloons, musicians performing classical pieces and Italian policemen looking very handsome in their tight and military uniform. Enclosed by buildings from the Renaissance and stories from the middle ages, San Marco Square is a magical place and I wish I never had to leave. Unfortunately my gelato is now finished and left us freezing on this beautiful autumn evening.

No better thing to warm you up in Italy than a perfect Italian espresso accompanied by a glass of good Grappa! Sitting outside a tiny street cafe on the cobble stoned walkway with tourists wandering past, locals going about their normal life and the Venice Canal glowing in the moonlight, I cannot decide whether it is the espresso, the grappa or this magical city that leaves me with this warm tingling feeling.


The next morning has an icy wind and the sky is the bluest blue. We stroll through this sleeping city as it lazily awakes for a Sunday morning and the church bells call it's millionth call. The homes look too perfect to be real and we wonder whether they are for show, or if real people really live there. The washing lines flaunting freshly washed underwear, pretty flowers on balconies and chimneys sticking out as if to invite Santa Claus just look too picturesque to be functional. But as the inhabitants slowly awake, they are visible with their dogs, scarves and bicycles on the cobble streets going about ordinary Venetian life.

A last lunch before we need to say good bye and of course we opt for the Italian food at the prettiest street restaurant. I order a Canneloni- a classic Italian where pasta tubes are filled with a rich ragu. My friend orders a pizza with every cured meat available in Italy on top of it. My Canneloni is stylish, of course without the white buttery bechamel sauce the rest of the world kills it with, nor does it have a touch of mozzarella. Instead it is accompanied by freshly grated mature Parmegano cheese. Simplicity. The ultimate elegance. They must have invented the "less is more phrase".

My al fresco pasta lunch in the sun in this beautiful town is ended off with a good espresso and then we silently and sadly leave this wonderland, bidding Ciao and wishing to return soon to fall in love all over again.

Sweet Indian Memories

My grandmother, Cecilia Petronella Cronje, is definitely a reincarnation of some extravagant Indian lady that, in her previous life, didn't do enough dancing, socializing and always wanted to have red hair. My grandmother does not believe in reincarnation but the Indian lady that lives in her body now, has the rest of us believing.

Cecilia, a short and slim vivacious lady with turquoise blue eyes, milky white skin and freckles on her pink blushing face, has never seen the outside of South Africa or even seen India on the Travel Channel, but is more Indian than some Raj's and Singh's out there!

As a child, our house was always smelling of some Indian spice, Chilly bites, Naan or Samoosas. Cupboards always had some Ramadan, Eid or Divali cookies in them, and her choice of house colour- Indian bright pinks, greens and blues- had the family wondering. Her jewellery is over the top and she left the house looking like a Hindu bride every morning, draped in diamonds, gold and bright pink lipstick. Saree's and gold bracelets, chillies and cardamon, intense fragrances and shocking green bathrooms...not your typical Afrikaans lady!

Growing up with the Indian culture and food, my mother and I developed a tradition and an equal love for India. On rainy days, hard days, cold days or sad days, or sometimes just any days, we used to take a trip to the Oriental Plaza, Johannesburg's little Culcatta. We would, without fail, order 2 spinach samoosas, 2 meat samoosas, 2 corn and cheese samoosas, naan bread, 2 papr, 2 masala tea and 2 sweet coconut samoosas to finish off with. We would sit in the bustling informal cafe, ill decorated, noisy, completely lacking ambiance and proudly hosting a life sized poster of Mecca on the wall. We'd talk, eat and talk, and then talk some more. When we eventually tired of sitting, we would drive to a little shop called Mantsoura, hidden away in the back alleys of Braamfontein, and buy Indian Sweet Meats- traditional sweets usually made for festivals and weddings and like nothing you have ever seen in the west. In Mantsoura, we would buy Jelebi, Chana Magaj and Burfee, while being stared at strangely by the bakers in the shop. We are sure, until this day, that we are the only white people that know about this place! And no day would be complete without our sugar rush from these delectable sweets, eaten in the car out of the white cardboard take-away boxes as we sat through afternoon traffic in the city.

To this day, whenever it rains, or whenever either one of us is sad, or whenever we miss each other, either one would expect a call from the other saying, "Today is a Plaza day!" We would reminisce and feel all better after, remembering our days in that uncomfortable restaurant where Samoosas healed hearts, masala tea fought the blues and the sweets made life...sweeter.

Years since our last Plaza date, I am blessed enough to visit in India, and I land in a city called Calicut, or Kozhikode. It smells of sun and spice and hard labour and is so colourful, vibrant and busy. I discovered a place called Sweet Meat Street Market and took the first Tuk Tuk I could find, in search of real Indian Sweet Meats!

Strolling through the sizzling streets and being the only non-Indian, which definitely attracted some attention, I discovered a tiny shop off the dusty street called Shankara Bakery. I spotted something that resembled the Mantsoura sweets I know and without hesitation rushed in. The worried looking little Indian man behind the counter could not speak a word of English, but luckily signalling 2, and saying Jelebi, Chana Magaj and Burfee, had him quickly weighing, packing and wrapping my little Indian delicacies in a confused haste.

As I sat in my hotel room, tasting the real deal, in real India, I really missed my mom, and really really wished she was eating these sweets with me! They were great, authentic and everything I had hoped for, but they were missing something- sharing them with my mom!

Wish you ate here with me!

Tasting the Middle East

Moroccan mint Tea in a traditional teapot

So I find myself in a city called Doha, in the state of Qatar.

Where the hell is that, you're asking right? Don't worry I didn't know either until I accepted a job here.

If you wanna know, it's the thumb off the ass of Saudi Arabia. Yip, it really looks like a thumb, and pretty much on the ass of Saudi. And I bet you all know Saudi for its glamorous reputation of its distorted view on human rights yeah? Where women get lashes for driving and hands get chopped off for stealing and culture permits no fun or happiness or drunken parties.

Fattoush salad

Doha is nothing like this. Surely they have laws and rules that are tighter than those in the west, and cultural standards, taboos and tolerances that are more strict than most of our parents, but this makes for a 0% crime rate, ridiculous wealth and a superb standard of living. And pretty sober citizens too.

Yes, it's in a desert, and yes, it is dusty. It's hell hot and humid and the growth of the city has exceeded that of the trees and plants making it rather yellowish all over. It is a peninsula surrounded by 800 km of ocean on the one side, and a never ending desert on the other. You're thinking camels right? Think again! Bright lights, modern skyscrapers, Hummers and Bentleys are more like it!

Haloumi and Fig rolls and Moussaka

Doha is about wealth and opulence and luxury. The malls are shiny and filled with designer shops and international brands. Hotels are glamorous and very L.A. Restaurants are modern and cafe's are uber chic.  There is no rubble on the streets, no beggars or homeless and never will the thought of poverty, suffering or an economic crises cross your mind as you rub shoulders with mysterious Abaya-wearing ladies carrying their Chanel bags and purchasing Louis Vuittons while you sip your Starbucks Frappechino in a marble floored mall.

Beautifully presented Humus!

There is a taste to suit any palate and a cuisine for every meal of the week. The mass amount of eastern and western expats flocking here to get their hands on some of the rich wealth pie, has made Doha a hub of culture and cuisine. The high incomes and relaxed lifestyle has created a market for excuisite restaurants, where fabulously bored expat housewives have high tea, Qatari ladies indulge in Belgian pastries over lunch and white robed Arabic men share chocolate fondues at Swiss chocolatiers. Lebanese restaurants with Sheesha, Egyptian places with singers and Persian

Pita and Lebanese mezze

cushions, French bistros, American diners, European Patisseries, Swiss Chocolatiers and Michelin-starred fusion restaurants are just some of the places we dress up for and spend our leisurely time in. Then there are the Turkish Schwarma kiosks, dirty little Indian eateries and tiny Thai street cafes that are unpretentious, cheap and never close and the little eastern workers never sleep or seize to smile. And the food is just perfect for a post-party bite before you hit the bed in your designer dress after a glamorous party!

Arabic sweets at Souq Waqif

Being warned about the infamous Doha Stone that fancies newcomers' waists, I'll resume the culinary treasure hunting at a slower pace. But I cannot wait to eat the east and tell you all about it!

Sahtain!

Mosaic Restaurant, The Orient, Pretoria South Africa

In 2010 Chef Chantel Dartnall won chef of the year. On top of that, she a beautiful woman always dressed in a black chefs uniform that fits perfectly and on every photo flaunts her big brown eyes and lipsticked smile! She is a viviacious and attractive woman and with her tiny body she perfectly runs an all girls kitchen!

I was an immediate fan and very curious about the magical dishes she whips up in her sexy girl power kitchen that won her not only number 1 chef in South Africa but also the American Express Platinum Award and Chaine des Rotisseurs International Blazon! Being, at that time, a female aspiring chef slaving away in a demanding fine dining kitchen too, it was the marshmellow centre of my chocolate sweetie pie dream to meet Chef Chantel and taste her masterpieces. And find out how she keeps on looking so groomed with a demanding career as this while I was falling apart and looking like Amy Winehouse on a bad trip after my 3rd split shift in a row!

After a 2 year wait I finally made it to Pretoria, where Restaurant Mosaic is nestled atop a hill with soaring eagles in a nature reserve, hidden away in a fairytale hotel called The Orient. I decided to book a lunch on a sunny winter Sunday, with my mother before I departed for yet another adventure. Difficult in sharing such a very long awaited experience with a person who has no interest in food and no culinary knowledge beyond knowing how to make reservations and steam veggies, but in Chantel I trusted to please any palate and made the reservation.

From the website reservation, I was already impressed. Never have I been given so much detail or offered so much just by making the reservation! Where would you like to sit? Which menu would you prefer? What time would you like to be seated? Where are you driving from and would you like a map or GPS coordinates? These people know their stuff!  If website reservations had an award, this one would definitely win it! If it was a man I would date it!

I made the reservation and a couple of hours later my reservation was telephonically confirmed by a friendly lady apparently looking forward to meeting me. Well by this time I was looking forward to meeting them more and was starving myself for the occassion!

The big day finally arrived and I was nervous about the long awaited enthusiasm blowing up in my face with dissapointment. But as we approached, and all directions sent were correct and easy to follow, the sight of it was sufficient reward for my long wait...

Entrance to the Orient

The Orient Hotel is an experience to breathe in and a sight to see. It is a special place hidden away in a valley between hills and a dam and if you do not go looking for it, its magic would stay a secret to world. A good thing to keep hidden but a sad loss if hidden from you.

The hotel is a 5 star boutique love child of two talented and passionate travellers that brought the mysteries and art of the Far East home with them, filled it with love and their stories, coloured it with South African hospitality and threw in an amazing chef.



Artworks of Tienie Pritchard



As we arrived, the lush gardens and Indian door greeted us, and a friendly hostess welcomed us into the dining room as though she knew us. Feeling at home already, we were offered a walk around. Of course we did not say no as we were ooh-aah-ing all the way from the entrance and so curious to see the rest. In a gallery tucked away in the garden, we were introduced to sculptor Tienie Pritchard, his work, his story and his struggle against the narrow minded leaders that prohibited free thinking, free speech and nudity in art. Inspired, bit more educated and hungry, we made our way to the Klimt Room, where I chose to have my long awaited lunch. Imagine eating masterpieces in a room decorated with the passionate paintings of dancing angels of Gustav Klimt!

 Heaven!

As we took our seats in the intimate room which seats only 10 guests, Chef Chantel elegantly appeared at our million-cutlery and glasses-on-the-crispest-white-linen-table, all fresh and smiling and as beautiful as in the pictures with her flawless signature black chefs and red lips! Before I could tell her how much I admire her and make her tell me the secrets to her fabulousness, she presented her menu with wonderful enthusiasm and radiating confidence and dissapeared again into the ambient air to whip up some magic.

After all our senses have been swooned and three wonderful breads arrived to our table, accompanied by Maitre'd Butter, Lemon & Herb Butter and Anchovy Butter, each in its unique cute butter cup holder, we started our amazing journey through Chantel's wonderland:





Fantasy Forest



Amouche Bouche



Our Amouche Bouche: Fresh Oysters with Grapefruit Lemon Foam and a jelly base. The flavours fantastic and I love the edible flower with a lemon  taste, but it lacked texture and the jelly ending was a bit too much wobbly bits in one bowl to my personal liking.

For starters I chose the Fantasy Forest plate paired with a glass of Lamberti Pinot Grigio Santepietre 2009. The Fantasy Forest is a secret and to this day I have no idea what I ate. It is however a very photogenic plate and  definitely a show stopper, but as for the taste and texture, not impressive at  all. I ended up picking the mushrooms (raw) off the over-jelled blobs on the plate and appreciated it for the cuteness. The Fantasy was that someone would actually finish the plate and say YUM!

  



Duck Terrine



 My mom made the wise choice in having the Duck Terrine with Pain de Epice, paired with Zevenwacht Gewurztraminer 2010. A pairing made in food and wine heaven and the best duck terrine I have tasted, ever! Natural texture and prominent flavours, beautifully presented and of course decorated with Chantel's signature flowers. A bit on the sweet side, showing off the chef's quintessentially South African sweet tooth.



Guinea Fowl Pie



For mains, my mom decided on the Guinea Fowl Pie with Morel Sauce, paired with 

Vriesenhof Vineyards Pinot Noir 2006. Now Guinea Fowl isn't a very interesting bird without its polka dots, and a nightmare to cook, and a pie is pretty much all you can do with it! This pie however, could have been chicken, pigeon, seagull for I know. No dominant flavour that said "this is a good attempt to make a smelly big bird edible". And the plate itself was a dissapointment. How can you send a gravy-soaked crust out of a kitchen Chantel? Pie 101- it must be CRISPY and gravy free! Someone did not rest their puff! And then the white, unflavoured and B.O.R.I.N.G rice blinded me in the corner of the plate. Thank goodness for the great sauce and pretty purple flower...



Venison Tasting Plate



My main course choice was the Venison Tasting Plate, paired with SA's own grape varietal, a good old glass of Beyerskloof Pinotage Reserve. A true South African wine with a hearty traditional dish- you cannot go wrong on this one. And Chantel, you did me proud! Esthetically pleasing and interesting at first sight, the best cooked venison (sous vide I assume) and a creamy puree of something between potato and parsnip. Furthermore Chantel impressed with a mini venison pie (this one crispy!) and a little bowl of venison liver cooked in the most amazing rich brown jus and contasted with bitter sweet Kumquat preserve. I would go back every night for this plate! An absolute winner!

 



Baked Pudding



 And now for dessert, my favourite part!

Paired with a golden sweet dessert wine, Soetkaroo Wine Estate Red Muscat d’ Alexandrie, the Jar-Baked Pudding, like Ouma made it, with Madagascan Vanilla Custard, served with an Apple sorbet and Cardamon Ice Cream was my first choice. Wonderfully cute and you feel naughty eating out of this little glass jar! The pudding is piercingly sweet but soothed with a delicate vanilla creme anglaise. The Apple Sorbet, garnished with the crispest apple disk, cuts through the sweetness and adds the much needed hint of acidity. Then the creamy Cardamon Ice Cream soothes this playground of flavours and delivers a rich and opulent aftertaste making you go back for more. The caramelised sugar dust and whole spices on the plate accentuate the aromas  and make it as visually satisfying as on the palate. A perfect comfort dessert for a mid winter sunday afternoon or a broken heart!

 

Sorbet with Beetroot Jelly





Macadamia and Quince Parfait

The Macadamia Nut and Caramelised Quince Parfait, served with Pear Sorbet and Nutty Ice cream is a delicate and subtle dessert and as elegant as the dining room. The perfect balance of flavour and texture is feather light and sinfully innocent, reminicent of Klimt's angels glancing at me from the murals.









Petit Fours and Coffee



 Petit Fours and rich black coffee was the perfect ending to our dining adventure, and Chef Chantel did not seize to amaze!

 For those of you who do not know what Petit Fours are, they are the little gifts from the Patissier, ending your meal and giving you a little reminder of what you had had. Like a little thank you gift from the kitchen. and this was a wonderful thank you! Each in their little porcelain pot, Mini Chocolate Macarons, Genoise Gateux, delicately flavoured home made Turkish Delight and the hand made Marshmellow Roll that changed my life! I will never ever eat another marshmellow from a packet! Eating these marshmellows were like taking a bite from an angel's cloud!

A sad closure to my long awaited experience as the last marshmellow dissolved in my mouth and the sun set on another South African winters day. Chef Chantel made me feel like a princess in her own castle.



Leaving The Orient



 Leaving this piece of paradise found, I am humbled by it's beauty and the awe inspiring talents that reside here. I wish upon every human being to discover such a special place and wish Chef Chantel all the success in the future in her little piece of heaven.