Last but not least...Matemwe Beach Village








Matemwe's beach



Crispy Squid salad



Someone once told me that the word "Matemwe" means "I like" in one of the 18 Malawian languages. In Swahili the word does not exist, but I think it should and it should mean "heaven on earth"!

Matemwe is situated on the north east coast of Zanzibar, and this is the last place I see before I leave this island,  and has been home for the past year.

With breathtaking sunrises and flabbergasting full moons, the white beaches, crystal waters, tall coconut trees and view of Mnemba Atoll you wonder whether there is a place more serene and more beautiful in this world. Worries are non-existent and fears vanish and the tides bring hope, love, peace and all things wonderful. This is my heaven.


<><><><>

<>

<><><><>

Sailfish Fishcakes

I could go on and on about this glorious little guest house hidden between lush gardens and humble village homes that believe that tourism should improve the local community's lives, and that tourists should be one with the island they come to visit, seeing it for the true and wonderful place it is without the fake, the plastic and the false. With exceptional staff and thoughtful touches, guests leave here with magical memories. And with happy tummies!



With comments such as "Best food I've eaten in Africa" and "best chef in the Indian Ocean", it is proof that this place's heart is in the right place...the kitchen! The young South African chef has brought with him tons of passion, great skill and a true love for food, transforming normal unskilled village boys into talented chefs. Combining local produce and traditional flavours with  western techniques and a touch of European ingredients, the menu is a true symphony of worlds that illuminates the beauty of the setting.






Pork Fillet with a Roast Apple sauce



Dinner time is an adventure and you are taken on a journey each night. One night, dinner time brings a travel through the culinary offerings of Africa, showcasing Morocco, South Africa and local Zanzibar food. Another night places you in a Masai Boma, feet in the sand, lit up by candle light and lanterns, where local spices are used to bring guests wonderful curries accompanied by a Zanzibari quartet of traditional Afro-Arabic music.

But the true experience comes on the nights where the chef flashes his creativity and talent and offers guests a 3 course meal where the menu lets Africa meet Europe.



Tuna in a Coconut Sauce



Dinner time has the restaurant buzzing with conversations of safaris through Africa, tribulations of Kilimanjaro, romantic whispers of honeymooners and the sound of the Indian Ocean waves breaking on the beach.  Dishes are sent out of the kitchen as artworks and empty plates are returned as guests enjoy the wonderful surprise of fantastic food in such a simplistic setting.



Some of the dishes on offer are Sailfish Fishcakes on Marinated Zucchini Ribbons and served with a Pineapple Preserve and Tomato Jam or a Crispy Squid Salad, made from squid freshly caught today, and served  

Venison on Pommes Dauphine with a Honey Mustard Sauce

with aa home made Chilli and Lime dressing. Mains consist of Pan Seared Tuna served on Spinach and Candied Cauliflower with a Coconut Sauce, and Pork Fillet stuffed with Dates and Gorgonzola, served with Potato Puree and Sauteed Red Cabbage with a Roast Apple Sauce! Sticky Toffee Puddings, Creme Brulees and Warm Chocolate Pots are some of the wonderful desserts you'll get to sample here. With the menu changing each night, a lifetime spent here is possible and favourable.

Sticky Toffee Pudding



So I say goodbye to my heaven and hope that angels let me return someday. In the meantime I'll cherish the fond memories made here and dream of the dinners spent with fantastic people, fabulous food and the east coast breeze promising another beautiful day.



The 3 Coolest Places to eat in Zanzibar

It's an island and it doesn't have to be so serious.

Bob Marley should be echoing from some dodgy speaker, bananas should be hanging over the barman's head and you must feel so far away from all the hustle and bustle that made you escape to an island in the first place. Right?

So here are my 3 favourite spots in Zanzibar that you should not miss out on:

Mercury's, StoneTown

Named after Freddie Mercury, the Queen legend born in Zanzibar, this place has achieved landmark status.





Sunset at mercury's



Situated next to the ferry terminal, on the main road and on the beach facing the sunset, the location could not have been better. This famous bar and restaurant is known for its vibe, whether with the locals or the tourists, all sorts get together here at all times of the day and week. Informal decor, cool music, decent food, great cocktails and enviable location, this is a true legend itself. Weekends are celebrated with the Coconut band who do excellent covers of classic sing along beats and have the crowd dancing and tapping their feet. Sunsets draw tourists that stare hypnotised at the sun's farewell of the day and lunch is an eclectic mix of languages and cultures dining together on local seafood, curries and chipattis.

What you see here is what you get, and if you see it for being a true Zanzibar experience, a pleasant experience is what you'll get!

Sele's Bungalows, Matemwe



Sele, the friendly barman and a happy guest



My favourite, and according to me, the best beach bar in the world!

Sele, the owner is always around, barefoot and always very happy to see you and greet you with a kiss and "welcome, welcome"  The barmen are cool dudes that look like they lie under coconut trees or surf in their free time. The bar is decorated with bananas and pineapples and all types of rare and interesting tropical fruits. The fruits don't only serve as decoration but are grabbed off the counter, popped into the blender and served as your fantastic cocktail with neon straws and umbrella- just as you should have it on an island!

The music is always cool, in an outdated kind of way. Music from the '90s and even the '80s, accompanied by the legend Mr Marley's famous tunes are always present. Hammocks under the trees, local hand made furniture and African motif couches decorate the open thatch roof. The floor is of beach sand and the bar of a beautiful old wooden dhow. Books and playing cards are available for entertainment and shisha pipes can be shared among friends. The crowd is made up of backpackers, relaxed free spirited travellers and locals looking for a good night out or maybe just a friendly face.

The food here is as unpretentious as the owner, but always fresh and always delicious! Crispy Chapatti stuffed with Spinach and Cheddar or Jumbo Prawns in a Coconut Curry or freshly caught Calamari stir fried in soy- and some other wonderful sticky sauce. Well priced and wonderful, the food doesn't dissapoint, but be warned, it does take up to 2 hours for your food to arrive. But then again, what's the rush? You're on an island for crying out loud! So sit back, order another umbrella drink and enjoy the experience!

Langi Langi, Nungwi

Any person who has ever been to Nungwi, has seen the sign outside the restaurant Langi Langi, and has definitely stopped, laughed and most probably taken a picture.

Rasta Chef's sign

Langi Langi is a hotel and restaurant owned and run by a funny and odd looking little Rasta man. He takes pride in his sign outside, which very cleverly attracts loads of attention and business. With statements such as "don't ask me what the weather will be like, do I look like CNN or BBC Weather?" and "If you want breakfast in bed please sleep in the kitchen", who can not want to taste his food? The Rasta Chef is the main attraction and the stunning location is a bonus.



The view and wonderful balcony



Upon entering through palm trees and Bougainvilleas, you find yourself on a wooden balcony perched on  one of the wonderful limestone rocks of Nungwi, where the tide showes off the wonderful white beach when it retracts and brings back the turquoise waves crashing under your chair when it returns.





The menu is as funny as the man and warnings are given on the "chilli page" (Don't go in the sun and get burn)  and "love you long time" footers every page. The food is simple yet very tasty and spices, curries and garlic are well used to amplify the ingredients.



Seafood Curry

 

My Seafood Curry served with rasta-style Vegetables is a sure winner! Fresh and tender calamari, shrimp and fish coated in a rich and flavourful coconut curry served with roasted mediteranean vegetables. The Roast Beef is a compote of beef strips marinated and fried in spices and garlic and served with rustic hand cut chips. Flavours from a mad kitchen enjoyed on a cool balcony watching the powerboats and fishing  dhows go past- this is what Island Living is all about!

A definite recommendation, Yah mahn!



Rasta Beef







The Rock, Zanzibar

The Rock from the beach

Once upon a time, I was in love. A picture of this restaurant, seen on a website, was the perfect setting for some eye gazing and sweet nothing whispered in each others ears. I immediately made a reservation and could not hold my enthusiasm for this unforgettable evening.

The Rock is situated on the beautiful South East coast of Zanzibar, where the sand is talcum white and the coconut trees are lazily lined up and swaying in the wind. It looks like a deserted beach and it is perfect for lovers' strolls and rolling in the sand, writing silly I love U's and splashing in the water.

The evening arrived and we are transported by very friendly staff of the Dongwe Ocean View Hotel toThe Rock Restaurant. Our doors are opened and we are escorted in a little boat to the stairs immersed in the crystal ocean water. A hand is offered and I am assisted towards the staircase leading up to the dining area, shoes still in hand. Friendly smiles and "karibu"s meet us and as we walk in I feel like royalty boarding a luxury yacht. In front of me, the deep blue ocean dances through the large open doors at the back of the restaurant.

We are kindly taken to our table and seated  with much care. After we ordered our wine, we decided to enjoy the view and breeze from the outdoor couches set atop this big rock. Unfortunately there is no sunset, as it is the east coast, but this does not demper the romance and awesomeness of this place. As the fresh breeze blows through your hair and candles are lit inside, you can imagine yourself in the romance of Leo and Kate on the Titanic. No barriers, no boundaries, nothing in your sight except for the majestic Big Blue Ocean and restaint is needed to not stand up, spread my arms and shout "I can fly!"

The beach from Dongwe Ocean View Hotel

We return to our table and study the menu. Here, unfortunately, some dissapointment sets in... The menu is unimaginative. Obviously the guy that said, "Hey lets build a restaurant on a rock in the middle of the ocean in Africa", was not present at the design of the menu. Nor the wine list.

The menu consists of mostly fish, served mostly with rice and veggies. Nothing special, which is such an anti climax for this wonderful venue. The wine list is pretty much the inventory list of all the boring wines found in the local supermarket. After strike one, I start finding fault with some other small things: The tables are too high for the chairs and it feels as if I need Alice's magic potion to make me grow so I can comfortably cut my food. There is no music, and the beautiful sound of the waves breaking does not hide the awkward silences and whispers of the table next to ours. The food is bland and my fish overcooked. Dessert is tropical fruits cut up, arranged on a plate with not even a mint leaf to give the idea of some effort.

Upon leaving, the wonderful staff make you feel special and honoured, and we are again transported on a little boat to where the soft sand meets our toes in the dark and our smiling driver takes us back to the hotel and wishes us a wonderful night.

As with my relationship, The Rock was not perfect either, but hopefully this place will last longer than the romance. I cannot fault the service, nor the location or the wonderful experience of dining on such a unique place. But I sincerely hope the right guy comes along and makes this little gem shine brighter. Please, please, change the menu, play some music and make the tables lower!

Hopefully I fall in love again and The Rock will live up to its full potential before then!

Places Recommended Unrecommended

Read any travel magazine or agent's website, and you'll find a handful of restaurants always recommended to prospective visitors to Zanzibar. Beautiful shots of tanatalising plates with the wonderful sea view as background, romantic words painting idylliic pictures, shiny cutlery laid on crisp white tablecloths flapping in the Indian Ocean breeze...

When you arrive, hungry for luxury and accompanied by high expectations, you find nothing like it here. You look around and wonder whether you came to ther right place! Did the author actually come here? What century did they come here? And who paid them to publish all these lies...?

So I have been fooled and let down and will therefore revenge in giving a truthful account of places seen on my own time, food tasted with my own honest palate and words written freely to save innocent people from tastebud torture and dissapointing romantic meals...

Swahili House

The view from your table

I had my first lunch in Zanzibar at this beautiful restaurant and was impressed! The rooftop Restaurant sits on the rooftop, obviously, of a wonderfully restored old building, and overlooks the entire Stone Town. 180 degree views of this Unicef Heritage Site and historic town is worth the steep 6 storey climb.

Best Cheesecake in Zanzibar

Tastefully decorated in Afro-Arabic style, this is a wonderful location. Service is excellent and the friendliest barman I have met in my entire life. I was immediately impressed with the place and could not wait for my lunch to arrive. A stunning calamari salad arrived at the table and was small, but tasteful and elegant, just as the restaurant. I finished my meal with a slice of Vanilla Cheesecake- the deal maker or breaker. As an ex-pastry chef, I have come to measure a chef's talents on the desserts. Not only because it is the last thing you'll put in your  mouth and therefore the last memory of the food, but because it is a precise science that most chefs couldn't care any less about. Pastry is usually the unwanted child in a kitchen and displays the commitment and level of perfectionism the chef has to offer. But alas, the Vanilla Cheesecake did not seize to impress! It actually had vanilla, real seeds you could see and was even garnished with a whole vanilla pod! The striking visual of the Vanilla pod, plus the wonderful smell of it, enhanced the rich and crumbly, perfect cheesecake that sat atop a luminous orange Mango Coulis. The best cheesecake I have had in Zanzibar, still a year later.

The view from Swahili House

Few months later I boasted about this "you-have-to-eat-there" restaurant and treated a British friend of mine to dinner. I painted pictures of romance and excellent food, an experience you cannot leave Zanzibar without! We arrived to be met with a single waiter and an empty restaurant. There was no music, no atmosphee, the candles have not been lit and the waiter was so happy to finally see people that he at least was the best thing about the evening.



 

The bar and interior

 

No Mojito, and I do love a Mojito, for the lack of mint. Okay, it is Zanzibar and these things happen, but after the 4th choice in cocktail and 4th dissapointing lack of ingredient, I settled on some wine. Slightly pissed off and embarrassed, we went ahead and ordered food. The food arrived as bland and cold as the atmosphere in the restaurant and my so-called fillet, which I know for sure was a rump, was killed of all taste and moisture and all things that make it edible. The garnishings on the plate was a failed attempt at braised leeks and potato puree and for the sake of my tastebuds I did not even get half way through the fight before I threw in the napkin and called it a dinner. Not only were there no guests, but definitely no head chef that gave a damn!

My poor friend, with expectations shattered, suffered through overcooked fish and over-Zanzibar-Spiced rice and I could not apologise more. Needless to say, Swahili House broke my heart that night and I have never returned. I still recommend it as the best place for sundowners and to enjoy the view, but be warned, the prices are as steep as the 6 storey staircase and Quality checked out some time ago.


Tatu


Cute decorations on the walls on the 2nd floor



Tatu is Stone Town's newest addition: a 3 storey restaurant, bar and whiskey lounge all in one, therefore the name Tatu meaning 3 in Swahili. Clever. Set just off the centre of town, the location is promising and the decor is clean, fresh and modern, a complete opposite to the environment in which it is set. Unfortunately, this cool place is maybe just too European for the Africa traveller and for its own good.

If this place had been opened in a different town, or maybe a different continent, its future might be brighter, but after fishing the ex-pat market with discounts and loyalty cards, the three floors are a crowd.



Specials on a black board- Rustic charm



Floor one is a sports bar with a rustic feel and the sound of football and smell of beer welcome you as you enter from the steep staircase off the dirty Stone Town street. Locals gather and cheer as they stare at flat screen televisions and sip on their beer. Floor number 2 meets you with bistro chairs and tables crammed into a tiny space and almost falling off the balcony overlooking the ocean. It is charming and tidy and the cute decorations and clever antique signage keep you amused. If you have the guts to take the final steep, almost ladder-steep staircase towards the third and final floor, a beautiful sunset might await you with it's last African sunshine rays reflecting off the crystal chandeliers and 125 whiskey bottles flaunted behind the bar. Funky furniture, cool tunes and a very large selection of imported spirits make you feel as if you travelled further than only three floors.



The view from the 2nd floor

The menu is very European and consists of old favourites you would, I imagine, find at your local pub down the cold British streets... Roast Beef Sandwiches, Chicken Wings, Cheese Plates, Potted Crab, Fillet of Beef. Simple and soulful. Beautifully presented in modern crockery, reasonably priced and not at all bad tasting. My absolute favourite here, which had me go back a couple of times, is the Grilled Vegetable and Goats Cheese Salad with a Red Pepper Pesto. A simple, smallish salad but heaven on this cruel earth! I love it for the fact that it is so UN-Zanzibari, and for me, being here for a year and missing "normal" food, this is a comfort. But this is not Zanzibari, it is not even local. Yes, we have goats here but no village goat has ever produced an ounce of cheese, sadly, and red peppers and Rocket and Balsamico- so not African. Adding to this, the service is apalling and the waiters and waitresses seem so far from all the African hospitality going on around them, that you feel even further away. As a tourist destination- an epic fail.  

A Stone Town sunset from the 3rd floor





But for the boys and girls out there who are looking for some soul food like mama used to make on Sundays back home, this is the place to be. For the ex-pats looking for a place less African with international hits and Scottish Whiskey, look no further, if you don't mind rude and slow service of course. Tatu has no more Swahili inside, in its kitchen or on its menu than in its name. I would be surprised if Tatu lives to see another season, and it would be a shame to see these doors close as it is a nice 3 storey climb to a different continent and closer to home for some.

236 Hurumzi

I cannot say much about this restaurant, as I was never there. And not because I never got the chance, but because I was warned!

236 Hurumzi has been featured in numerous articles on Zanzibar and Zanzibar food. It has been voted one of the most romantic restaurants. it is spoken well of and advertised on websites and booklets. There are stunning photographs of Arabian decor, Shisha Pipes and mats laid on the floor and garnished with glorious finger food, where lovers sit on cushions and experience the wonders of Africa's meeting with the East.

But alas, this has gone to the dogs. No comment has come back positive and some even shocking, making me bow my head in shame as it was I who recommended it, based on all these untruthful or outdated media. Some so shocking and cruel that I wanted to give them their money back!

I have always wanted to see for myself but cannot get myself to spend my hard earned shillings on a place which has died, sitting soulless on the most beautiful rooftop and not even blinking with the shame of its tarnished reputation.

Lets take a minute of silence and bid a sad farewell to the heart of Stone Town, the hope of romantic evenings and the death of standards and wonderful places. 236 Hurumzi, I wish I knew you before you died.










Departure Point Znz continued...



The view from your table



So you come to a tropical island and are looking for soft white sand, swaying palm trees, lazy hammocks and pina coladas served in coconut shells... Well look no further...Pongwe Beach Hotel is it! A beach ripped from a poster and stuck onto earth. This place is so beautiful it tears me up every time I visit and the beauty never seizes to impress me.

Okay, so I might be a wee bit bias about this piece of heaven, but I am sure that eventhough the managers and owners weren't my friends, I would think the same. And their annual 90% occupancy rate and being booked up a year in advance, proves my theory.

The restaurant at Pongwe Beach  Hotel

With a table set on a beach that takes your breath away, your toes buried in the soft sand and waiters serving you with smiles that seem to have no end, this is by far my favourite spot for a lazy lunch! Laid back tunes echoing from the restaurant, friendly Masai men greeting as they walk by. turquoise waters and hammocks swinging between coconut trees are the perfect accompaniment to any meal.

The menu at Pongwe Beach Hotel is small, simple and changes daily. The ingredients are fresh and of high quality  and seafood is consistently perfectly cooked (with overcooking being a common bad habit on the island). The cooks have been here since the last brick was laid and have grown to be chefs worthy of more recognition than available. The options are as "no frills" as the hotel itself and their vision of creating a perfect guest experience in Africa. From the Warm Chicken Liver Salad to a Red Prawn Curry, perfectly seared Tuna on a Nicoise Salad, every plate is welcomed to the table with an "ooh" or "wow". The ultimate show-off though, is their Crab Claws! Pongwe's Crab Claws excite me so much I just want to jump into the next Lobster tank I see and tell that overpriced little thing, "You ain't all that my friend! There are better crustacean in my sea!"

Crab Claws served with hand cut chips and fresh spicy Salsa

So to carry on about the Pongwe Crab, as it deserves to be noted, it is lightly poached, served on a platter and comes with pretty hand cut chips and a fresh and spicy salsa. And you even get little shell crackers! It is lunch and entertainment all together, what more can a girl ask for? A perfect Mojito maybe...?

An appetiser- Seafood Curry wrapped in a crispy
Poppadom

Moreish Mojitos made with brown sugar or Passion Cups made with fresh plump passion fruit, a stroll down the beach and wetting my toes in the crystal water has me feeling like a princess on my own little island, and as I wear my crown and take my lovely memories I leave Pongwe after another fantastic lunch!

Oh how I will miss you!